As the new year begins, the world of horology is abuzz with excitement about the latest
trends and advancements in wristwatches. From traditional designs with modern twists to
cutting-edge technologies seamlessly integrated into timepieces, 2024 looks to be an
interesting year for watch enthusiasts. Here are ten watch trends that we believe will
dominate the scene in 2024.
The announcement of new Universal Genève models.
We were all excited when it was announced at the end of 2023 that Breitling’s ownership
had purchased the iconic brand with plans to restore it to its former glory, but watches
take years to develop, so we won’t see any new Universal Genève models in 2024 unless
Breitling had secretly been working on this deal for the past few years.
An Anniversary Moonwatch from Omega
After a relatively calm 2023, Omega is ready for a great year in 2024. Since France will
host the Summer Olympics, Omega, the official timekeeper for the event, will be releasing
a few limited edition items. The identity of the next James Bond may also be revealed in
2024, and there may be a commemorative Seamaster to go along with it. The
Speedmaster and the lunar landing are Omega’s greatest claims to fame.
It will be fifty-five years in 2024 after the Apollo 11 mission in 1969 sent the first humans to
the moon. As you probably know, astronaut Buzz Aldrin wore a Speedy wristband during
that historic landing. Furthermore, even though 55 seems like a strange year to celebrate
an anniversary.
Rolex is easier to purchase
The most annoying aspect of Rolex over the last few years has been the difficulties in
obtaining one. Stories abound about years-long waiting lists and ADs withholding popular
sports models from prospective customers, and rumors circulate that the brand is
purposefully keeping production low (which is false; the brand produces approximately a
million watches per year) and skyrocketing prices on the secondary market to the point
where the idea of purchasing a Rolex at SRP is laughable.
However, there are signs that the tide is finally turning.
Secondhand Rolex prices have declined drastically throughout 2023, reversing the absurd
pandemic-era highs and indicating the end of the Rolex bubble.
The TAG Heuer Renaissance continues
TAG Heuer has quit messing around. For the last several years, the brand has been on an
unstated rehabilitation tour, ostensibly geared at wooing back fans who had previously
regarded it as pricey and disappointing. TAG Heuer has consistently improved the quality
of its watches and movements while also relying on traditional designs from Heuer’s
illustrious history. This all culminated in 2023 with the remarkable launch of the new
Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox,” which celebrated the 60th anniversary of Heuer’s most
significant model with the ideal balance of old-school flair and new-school substance.
Carl F. Bucherer’s Market is booming
In the world of Swiss watches, Rolex is unquestionably in charge, even among those who
profess to despise the brand. Sales of Rolex alone, excluding subsidiary Tudor, account for
29.2% of the market share, according to Morgan Stanley’s most recent annual
assessment on the status of the industry. That exceeds the total sales of the next five top
brands combined. (Cartier, Omega, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe,
for those who like to keep score at home.)
With roots in 1888, CFB is little mentioned in American enthusiast circles and sells over
half of its timepieces in Asia. However, the brand’s catalog is full of intriguing models with
intricate movements, proprietary technology, and potentially successful sports models.
Examples of these include a 500m water rating, a carbon fiber flyback chronograph that
could keep IWC busy at night, and a sharp dive watch with a COSC movement that Rolex
could use to outdo the Seamasters and SeaQs of the world.
Christopher Ward Becoming a Part of the Big Boys
In recent years, only few brands have had as much success as Christopher Ward.
Following the departure of its namesake from the firm in 2020, the brand had a complete
makeover, releasing an infinite stream of popular timepieces, a new logo, and higher
quality (and pricing). The year 2023 was particularly noteworthy for the brand. One of the
most talked-about watches of the year was a new line of integrated bracelet sports
watches that it introduced in The Twelve.
We believe CW is going to have its greatest year ever, despite the opinions of some who
believe the brand has peaked and cannot rise much higher. The company was established
in 2004 as the first watch brand to be sold only online. In 2024, it will celebrate both its
20th anniversary and the tenth anniversary of its merger with Swiss watchmaker
Synergies Horlogères SA.
Audemars Piguet’s Future Path
In 2023, Audemars Piguet was the brand that watch aficionados were most likely to find
fault with. A prominent brand in the past, AP is regarded as one of the “Holy Trinity” of
haute horlogerie, along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. However, in recent
years, the brand has appeared to be content to eschew tradition in favor of creating hype
watches that are influenced by pop culture and gaining influence.
For the first time in three decades, the company will have a new CEO in 2024 when Ilaria
Resta, a veteran of the cosmetics sector and a Swiss national, succeeds outgoing CEO
François-Henry Bennahmias. However, you should be aware that Bennahmias preserved
the brand rather than destroyed it before you start holding him responsible for any alleged
issues at AP.
Numerous Collabs
Collaborations ruled 2023, and almost any brand was exempt from the trend.
Watchmakers were always competing with other firms on limited-edition models, from
budget-friendly brands like Timex to high-profile names like the aforementioned
Audemars Piguet models. The most absurd thing, though, was the sheer variety of
collaborations that we observed. There were collaborations with pop culture, celebrities,
retailers, artists, products, apparel brands, collaborations with an absurdly large number
of collaborators (four cooks in this kitchen), and even collaborations between watch
brands.
Bizarre dials are everywhere
Another trend that began to gain traction in 2023 and is expected to explode by 2024 is
the use of unusual materials for dials. Over the last several years, there has been a
significant trend toward utilizing more color in dials (2023 was a major year for purple
dials, in particular), but watch makers are always looking for new ways to distinguish out
by combining distinctive and visually attractive materials into their designs.
Sports watches and smaller divers
The industry has gradually, slowly started to shift toward more traditionally sized
timepieces in recent years, after two decades of giant watches. In 2023, Tudor, primarily
with the launching of its 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54 diving watch at Watches and Wonders,
gave the trend a major boost. Other watch companies, such as Longines with its 39mm
Legend Diver and Spirit Zulu Time GMT and Tissot with its 36mm PRX Powermatic 80,
have also been producing sports watches and divers that are smaller than 40mm. Even
IWC reduced the size of their Big Pilot’s Watch; although it is still large at 43mm, it is far
more wearable than 36mm.
